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Mournes Guidebook

The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)



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Updated 6/10/11

New Additions since the 2010 Guide

Spellack Rock with Slieve Bearnagh beyond. Photo: Craig Hiller/Hillerscapes

Main Face

Saucerful of Secrets E3 5c ***
Craig Hiller, Ricky Bell 20/6/11
Start as for Walking Backwards (bumslide). Step over to the groove and up to the horizontal break. Step right and up into the break below the twin grooves. Lay-back up the grooves (small cams) until a high step right gains a sloping ledge. Traverse right to the next diagonal groove. Place a .2 camalot right down at your feet in a slot in the groove (hard to see) and continue to the top.

Too Cool for Cats E2 5c **
Craig Hiller, Keith Willett 31/7/05
An interesting direct start to Cool for Cats.
Start 1m left of Mirror Mirror below a small roof. Move through the right hand side of the roof and trend left on good side-pulls to reach the first horizontal break. Make hard moves above to gain the next horizontal break. Go straight up the wall using a deep pocket to the next large break and join the groove of Cool for Cats to the top.

Seven Up Buttress

Gates of Dawn - 1998 Guide Book Correction
The description and photo of Gates of Dawn do not tally. The written description is correct; the route skirts the right edge of the slab. The left trending to traverse on twin cracks was first done by Stephen Ferris.

Sugar Mountain 25m E2 5c (climbed in the wet so may be 5b)
I Rea, D Crawley 29/3/04
Climb to the initial ledge on Seven Up. From the middle of the ledge climb directly up via vertical fault to the quartz intrusion. Traverse down right on twin breaks to middle of Slab. Using the two right trending diagonal faults, trend left to the large block. Go left on ledge, step-down and climb wall left of the Seven Up finish.

Cabin Cruise Buttress

Fear and Trembling 30m E4 6a
I. Rea, E. Cooper 28/5/00
Start 1m left of Cabin Cruise. Climb up for a few meters to gain footholds just R of Ariel, place a runner in Ariel then step R and climb between the good edge on the L and the thin friction seam on the R. Hard moves lead to good footholds just L of the green streak. Traverse R to a vertical crack, over bulge and up the wall directly to finish as for Ariel.

Half Baked 30m E1 5c
P.Swail, A.Marshall 11/6/06
Start 1m left of Leeward. Make bouldery moves off the ground to a rest where gear can be arranged. Pull through small overlap and climb right handside of the arete to belay as for Leeward.

Forest View Buttress

Broken Arrow HVS 5a
I Rea, D Crawley 29/3/04
Forest View Buttress. Start: 1m right of Double birth. Up via pockets and footholds to break. Climb between two cracks to ledge. Down right to the most prominent crack. Climb between it and the finger seam on the left to top.

Afterlife * E2 6a
K Kilroy, E Clarke 16/5/10
An exciting and fun eliminate line across the big blank slab on Forest View Buttress. Climb Afterbirth until you've had your fill and then move left to hand traverse the next obvious horizontal break above Whit. Smile at the pendulum potential, but not for too long. Gain a small ledge at the end of the traverse with interest and finish up cracks right of Final FU.

Krecik ** E6 6c
Ricky Bell, Dan O'Neill 28/9/11 (headpoint)
A fun line with the trickiest footmatch you'll ever do?.. Arange a babybouncer of protecion in Afterbirth and Wonderchild then quest diagonally up and right to the only holds on the vein that divide the clean wall. Match feet and continue to the safety of the horizontal break.

On a windy murky 28th September Ricky Bell, Dan O'Neill and Craig Hiller headed for a quick visit to the bigger faces of Spellack to be shut down by damp windy conditions and headed for the more sheltered and popular Forest View Buttress. Thankfully it was dry and Ricky done a line he had been on maybe 10 years ago (yes he is getting old). Ricky describes it as 'A fun line with the trickiest footmatch you'll ever do?...' Dan belayed Ricky and Craig filmed the first ascent. It may be another eliminate but the climbing is brilliant.

The following climbs are on a small buttress at the top of Cabin Cruise Buttress. Access can be gained by climbing any route on that buttress and then walk up a further 30-40m, or by scrambling up the gully to the L of Aries.

Smokin? the Tweed 14m E1 5b
S. Patton, D. Crawley
Route takes a direct line through the blocky overhangs further round to the L of the main section. Climb straight to first roof, and climb directly through to next roof which is climbed by an obvious break on the L. Climb direct to finish.

Rock Over and Roll Up 15m VS 5a
D. Crawley, S. Patton
Start L of the arete bounding the L edge of the main face as crag is approached from below. Climb direct to small roof which is taken directly by a reachy move. Follow the clean wall to top and belay on large blocks.

Marasco 15m VS 4c
D. Crawley, S. Patton
Start at bottom of aforementioned arete. Make an energetic move R to swing up and R onto the main face, rock slightly crumbly for feet. Climb up face to a deep crack system which is climbed to small horizontal break. Climb boldly to top on rounded holds finishing as for Rock Over and Roll Up. Descent is by walking back 10 ? 15 M.

Winter Routes

Cabin Fever 25m III
K. Quinn, A. Porter 30/12/00
Start on the right hand side of Cabin Cruise buttress. Good steep ice to poor steep vegetation. Up R to belay at rowan tree.

Published on: 2004-09-21 (5389 reads)

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