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Mournes Guidebook

The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)



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Updated 5/05/11

New Additions since the 2010 Guide

Ben Crom from the Binnian/Lamagan col. Photo: Craig Hiller

Summit Block

Chicken Run 10m E3, 6a
E Cooper, I Rea 3/9/00
High in the grade. Takes the obvious vertical fault just R of the centre of the summit block. Climb angular fins and breaks to L slanting crack. Good friends high in this. Hard step R into crack and layback up this with difficulty. Protection good. RPs in crack.

Pigeon Walk ** 15m E5, 6b
R Bell, C Hiller 8/4/11 onsight
Start up Chicken Run then continue left along the raising hand rail to a tricky top out! Good at the start of the hand rail.

The Big Bird Shuffle 12m E4, 6a
R Bell, C Hiller 8/4/11 onsight
Start below the middle of the Summit Block and climb up and left along the grooves system to a grovelling finish.

Main Face

Moon Fever E5, 6a
Eddie Cooper, Martin Manson, Spring 2001
Start as for Cancer. Climb to flake and pull over roof to join Yellow Moon. Follow Yellow Moon until possible to move right and up to surmount a small overlap using down pointing flakes. Continue to move easily to a bulge. Technical moves lead over this to a ledge. Traverse left to join Yellow Moon at the twin cracks and follow these to the top.

Suggested upgradings:
Dreaming Air ? E3, 6a (Main Face)
Rage of Achilles ? E3, 6a (Main Face)
Die Valkyrie ? E3, 6a (Gully Wall)
Intolerance ? E1, 5b (Gully Wall)

The above routes have had a number of ascents. To our knowledge, Red River has not had a second ascent, but in light of the above, it is likely to be a grade harder than that given in the present guide.

On the 2nd ascent of Rage of Achilles, E. Cooper and A. Moles made two variations. On the 1st pitch it was found possible to move directly from the traverse up to the flake crack (at same grade). On the 2nd pitch, E. Cooper added a direct finish up the obvious groove, instead of traversing into Blood Strangers ? 6b.

Round Gully Wall

The majority of routes on this fantastic wall consist of 25m of climbing and a further 10-15m to reach the stake and block belay at the top center of the crag. It is therefore preferable to abseil and bring a short rigging rope to extend a knot from the stake & block belay to pull your ropes at the top of each route. This also provides an immediate belay topping out on each route. Otherwise descend the gully and gain routes 5,6 & 7 from the start of 'On the Verge' or lower down a rising vegetated traverse left leads to routes 2, 3 & 4.

Topo: An aerial shot from a helicopter

1. Golden Wonder ** E2, 5b
C Hiller, A Marshall 30/4/11
Abseil from the stake and block (using a rigging rope). Crack belay on the left at the base of the slab (2 camalot). Start from the bottom right of the slab using flat holds and step up to a groove. Arrange protection in slots (small wires & cams), move out left to the obvious flake and continue up (unprotected) to the left side of a thin grass ledge. Climb up diagonally left to the bottom of a fault which is followed to the top.

Golden Wonder, E2 5b

2. Golden Gate *** 40m E3, 5c
I Rea, K O'Hara
Destined to become a classic, low in the grade. Start below a small overhang just left of Restless Eyes. Climb directly up via flakey fault/crack to ledges below a grassy depression. Up right for a few meters to flakes and to a good footledge. Traverse right and up crack to right facing corner. Up this to its top and exit left. Directly up to grass ledge and then a short wall to top. Good stake belay, though a good belay can be taken on the grass ledge.

3. Rainbow Road *** 40m E4, 6a
E Cooper, J Suffern 10/8/2005
Up corner and over the roof to gain right trending fault and follow it to top avoiding tempting flakes on the left a half height.

4. Restless Eyes *** 40m E2, 5b

5. The Great Bequeather *** 25m E5, 6b
R Bell, C Hiller 8/4/11 onsight
The Great Bequeather takes the tramlines up the centre of the wall. A crux section before the slabby wall above is protected by an old peg.

6. Octobaby *** 35m E3, 5c
C Hiller, R Bell 25/4/11
Octobaby climbs the right side of Round Gully Wall. Gain the ledge at the right hand side of the steep wall via the gully. Move up the curving ramp to a large flat hold. Make a sequence of moves up and left using pockets untill forced right onto the slab (crux). Move up the slab to a ledge at the base of a dirty corner. Finish up the exposed arete right of the corner.

7. On the Verge 35m HVS, 5b

Published on: 2004-09-21 (4083 reads)

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