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Mournes Guidebook


The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)

 

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  LITTLE BINNIAN





Lonesome Road Direct 25m E3 5c
Paul McArthur, Ricky Young, 14-May-2000.
Start below obvious pocket in the wall. Climb direct from the ground using the small pocket to reach the flake. Before reaching the wide ramp, move left and up the crack to finish.

Spooked E5/6 6b *
Eddie Cooper, Jeremy Suffern 7/8/2005
A fine technical and sustained route. Start as for Lonesome Road Direct. Up to small pocket then right to large hole, 2.5 friend. Boldly up wall to horizontal crack with pocket, small wires. Difficult moves straight up lead to the ramp of Lonesome Road which is followed to top.

Don't Fear the Reaper E5 6a **
Eddie Cooper, Solo. Spring 04.
Start at the ar?te right of Eye of the Tiger. Move up and then left to a series of flakes which are followed with care. Step up and onto the slab above finishing slightly rightwards up a crack.

Zombie Right-hand E4 6b **
Eddie Cooper, Martin Manson, Spring 04.
Start on the grassy ledge 3m right of Don't Fear the Reaper. Move left and up onto the slab above, technical crux. Place gear in pockets and continue up to a rising right trending line to join Refugee for its' last few moves.

Zombie E6 6b ***
Eddie Cooper, Mark Rocks, Spring 04.
A tremendous line, technical then bold.
Start on the grassy ledge 3m right of Don't Fear the Reaper. Move left and up onto the slab above, technical crux. Place gear in pockets and continue up and slightly left to pocked crack, take a deep breath and follow it to the top.
Top-roped prior to first ascent

Timewarp 20m HS 4a
N Browne. (solo) 14/09/03.
Start: Grass and heather ledge on left side of gully, 20 metres above start of Nig-Nog. Tiptoe carefully down the ledge from the rock step and clamber onto the slab. Hand traverse the line of pock marks leading horizontally left. Most of the moves aren't particularly hard, but the very exposed situation and (typical Wee Binnian) lack of protection combine to make the route serious.

Variation: Can also be traversed with feet on the pocks for a grade of approx. VDiff/S.

Should've Remembered The Quickdraws 20m V.Diff
N Browne, P Hutchinson, 20/09/03.
Start: as for Timewarp, but once on the slab climb directly up the vertical crack. Clamber round the small tuft of heather and finish directly up the slab, across the white patch of rock.









Published on: 2004-09-21 (3778 reads)

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