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Mournes Guidebook


The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)

 

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  EAGLE MOUNTAIN
Updated 11/06/11



New Additions since the 2010 Guide


The Lost Forgotten, E7 6c
R Bell, M O'Loughlin 11/6/11

Coming Back to Life, E1 5b
C Hiller, R Bell, 23/4/10
Climb the first pitch of Sammy Higgins to belay below the twin cracks. Move to the right of the arete and climb its right side to the small overhang. Step left and climb the hand crack left of the arete to the ledge above and belay. There is tat in a thread above this ledge which may be used to abseil but check it and make your own decision. Also there is more tat on up at the huge block if you decide to approach the route from above.

The twin cracks have also been cleaned so please do not climb them.

Winter Routes

Buckeye Jim 120 m, 111
I.Rea and K.O'Hara, 1/1/10
Starts just below and left of Corpse Alley and climbs the vegetated mixed ground left of Musical Cracks. Climb a steep leftward rising ramp into a vague gully which leads up to a rocky alcove. Go up and make a long horizontal traverse beneath a steep wall to gain easier ground. Finish up and left.

Great Gully Area

Cold Harbour 55 m, V,(4,6)
I.Rea and K. O'Hara, 8/1/10
Above the difficult step in Great Gully is a turfy buttress, bounded on the right by the gully and on the left by a dark right facing corner.
(1) 30m. Climb the difficult step in Great Gully, step left and climb up the middle of the turfy buttress to belay at a huge thread below a small overhang.
(2) 25m. Go round overhang on the right and up obvious left slanting line. Steep and strenuous but very well protected and with good turf where it matters.
(3) 100m. Finish up easier ground left of Great Gully.

The Amphitheatre

A Trembling Sod 35m IV (4/5)
I. Rea, S. Ferris Feb. 2004
The deep vegetated groove immediately right of Tullamona Cracks, finishing direct at the top (easier than it looks).

The Keep

Stepping Westward 155m IV (4,5,4,2/3)
I. Rea, K. O?Hara 27/12/00
Start: as for Sirius.
1. 55m. Climb the line of least resistance on the L side of the buttress to an exposed ledge overlooking Great Gully. This pitch can be split if necessary.
2. 40m. Up and R to a short difficult rocky corner. Up this then easily up to base of another corner.
3. 40m. Go halfway up corner until possible to go R into an easier fault. Up to pinnacles, short step down to belay.
4. 20m. Negotiate pinnacles.









Published on: 2004-09-21 (4071 reads)

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