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Mournes Guidebook

The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)



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Updated 29/08/13

New additions since the 2010 guide in red

The Ledger *** 38m HVS 4c
C Hiller & R Bell 4/7/11
Climbs the wall left of the large chimney near Twist of Fate. Best approach is to abseil in to the large flat ledge below a short corner. Climb the corner followed by a series of ledges moving left to where the wall steepens. Climb up to and past an amazing thread (crux) to a big cleaned ledge. Finish up left of the stacked blocks.

Main Face

Into the Dread *** E7, 6b/c 45m
P Swail & R Bell 23/7/11
Sustained and well protected wall climbing, tackling the steep wall left of Twist of Fate. One of the best of its nature and its grade in the whole of the country. Approach the start of Twist of Fate either by abseil or by scrambling up the steep grass. Climb Twist of Fate for 2m then traverse left for 5m to a small blocky overhang. From here climb the steep wall straight up, aiming for the inverted V roof. From the roof, head left whilst trying to fight off the pump and make technical moves on slopers with a big reach to a break and in-situ thread. Relax and climb the steep headwall slightly right on good holds, in a tremendous position to finish on a granite ledge.

14. Twist of Fate *** 50m E4 6a

Mental Crack *** 50m E7 6b/c
R Bell & P Swail 4/7/11

15. Handcart Avenue ** 40m E2 4c,5c

16. The Sheugh **** 73m Severe

17. The Spirit Level *** 52m E5 6b,6a

18. Plumb Line ** 20m E6 6b
E Cooper, M Manson, P McArthur 15/7/01
Starts from the ledge on the arete at the top of the second pitch of Spirit Level. After a tricky move up to get established on the arete, a long reach to a sloping break gains some poor holds. Careful footwork, and a quick pull leads to a long reach/lunge to a good jug. Move up with less dificulty to stand on the jug and arrange poor cams in the break. Another hard move up leads to better holds and that all-important mantle over the top.

Buzzards Arete

19. War Music*** 50m E5 6a,6b

20. The Peace Line *** 55m E7/8 6c
R.Bell, M.O’loughlin, H.Fogg (Headpoint) 26/9/10
Bouldery climbing in a spectacular position. Follow the start of Divided Years and onto the big ledge out left at half height. Continue up the groove above to a small roof and good cams. A long bouldery section leads via the short arete to the finishing jugs of Divided Years.

21. Divided Years*** 55m E8/9 6c

Main Face Right Hand

Rio Bravo, E2, 5b 45m
I. Rea & K. O'Hara, 30/6/11
Start just left of Mithril. Climb up the short corner and overhang on the left and gain the easier stepped section of Mithril. Where it goes right go left and then directly up an independent series of overhangs and bulges on the wall between Mithril and Walk Tall.

Sunflower Sutra, E1, 5b 45m
I. Rea & K. O'Hara, 30/6/11
Start in the chimney/alcove as for Mithril but immeadiately swing out right on to the arete. Weave up this to a big sloping ledge. Up right at a flake. Up into an alcove. Up to grassy ledge. Up short wide crack in corner, then steeply out left on a flake to another ledge. Finish up bulges above.

Both routes gave serious trouble with rope drag, so take plenty of slings and extenders.

North West Face

Amateur Hour HVS 5a **
J. Parr, E. Quinn 17/5/13
Juggy, well protected climbing combine to give a fantastic route through some steep ground in an amazing situation. Climb broken pillar to gain the base of the clean slab. Follow slab until forced around the aręte. Continue steeply up the wall above, following flakes and cracks.

Halleluiah I'm a Bum * 30m E1 5b
I Rea K O'Hara 1/6/02
Start as for Hawk Walk.
Climb up a few metres to the base of a wide crack. Step left to a ledge on the arete. Up arete to large ledge. Up right, then left up blocky pillar/face. Hard move up right to ledge on Hawk Walk. Step out left again and finish up rounded face.

Fallen Eagle * 35m HVS 5b
I Rea K O'Hara 1/6/02
Start about 8m's right of Hawk Walk at blocky ledges.
Up to triangular niche and follow thin crack and face holds until an unavoidable left step into Hawk Walk. Immediately step right again on a good layaway to downward pointing flake. Awkward move to ledge and finish more easily diagonally right to the top.

Published on: 2004-09-21 (5817 reads)

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