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Slieve Binnian North Tors

The Mushroom Boyz E7 6c
Simon Moore Aug 2003
Climbs the blank looking 45 ft slab and arete starting at the base of the obvious arete about 10 metres to the right of the start of North route (118) in the Mournes guide. The route is protected?? by a purple alien on two cams only and a shit rp1, but the fall regardless would be pretty bad. The route was top roped before the ascent, and would be an AMAZING onsight if anyone could pull it off as it is quite technical.

First Ascent of Mushroom Boyz - E7 6c

First Ascent of Mushroom Boyz. Photo Hugh Moore

I Am Spiderman ** E7 6c
Ricky Bell, Ali Wilson, Paul Swail Easter 2004 (Headpoint)
Just around the corner (in the gap) 20 metres to the right of the Mushroom Boyz. Climbs the groove project below the arcing arete starting up the diagonal hand crack, entering the groove with difficulty, exiting on a hard mono move.

Ricky Bell on First Ascent of 'I Am Spiderman'

Crystal Methods E8/9 6c***
Simon Moore 22/10/05 (toproped prior to first ascent).
Climb the obvious blunt, blank arete facing I am Spiderman from the ground. Gear is available at around 12 feet.

I Am Not Spiderman ** E4 6a
Eddie Cooper, Anthony 'the dude' Warnock, Dave Hamill 2nd April 2005
Start 8 metres left of Electra. Climb the arete to a ledge at 5m and move right to an awkward groove. From the top of the groove balance up right to a good hold at the end of the Electra traverse. Make tricky moves left to a flake which may allow the top to be reached.

Eazy Now * E6 6c
James Pearson, Simon Moore Easter 2004 (Headpoint)
10 metres to the right of Electra just around the corner, climbs the Z crack to its end with a hideous 6c mantle over the top. Short and sweet.

Hombre * E4 6a
Eddie Cooper, Dave Hamill & Jeremy Suffern 26-6-2005
Follow Dreadlocks Holiday dir. to a massive thread. Step down then right to gain a good pocket and short but absorbing traverse line leading to the arete (good 2.5 friend on right). Follow arete to top.

Thrill issues of the Jellyman ** E7 6b
Ricky Bell, Ali Moles, Eddie Barbour 8/7/05 (headpoint)
Follow Dreadlocks Holiday to a massive thread. Step right until standing in a pocket. Climb the slab above untill it's possible to gain the arete.

The First Ascent of Thrill Issues of the Jellyman. Photo: Craig Hiller

Fuzzy Logic HVS, 4c 30m *
C.Hiller, A Miller 23/8/06
Start as for York Street. Climb for about 5m to below the main twin cracks. Step out right to below the blunt arete and just right again continue up on a thin side pull to pockets. Move left to a large spike on the arete and arrange good protection. From here continue straight up the slab (no gear) to belay.

The Enemy Within E4/5 6b **
A.Marshall, A.Miller 23/8/06 (Headpoint)
Start as for The Penguin on Newcastle Beach. Climb the rightward trending crack leading through Screamers and make a delicate step right to gain the flake of Tolerance.

Published on: 2004-09-21 (6632 reads)

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