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Mournes Guidebook


The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)

 

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  FIRST CORNER BUTTRESS
Updated 2/03/11



New Additions since the 2010 Guide


Half Corner Wall

Krammed E1 5a
Although a poorly protected route it has positive moves and is worth the effort.
Start 1m left of Kram and below the arete. Move up flutings to the spacious ledge below a large horizontal flake. Using the flake gain a pinch and small edges above to join the last move of Kram left-hand finish.


1st r. descriptions First Corner Buttress


1. Dot to dot E3 5c **
The best traverse in the Mournes.
E Cooper, A Moles


2. Edge on E4 6b **
Absorbing! Now E4
E Cooper, A Moles

3. Meat Grinder E2 5c **
Popular, easy E2
P Douglas


4. Salami Rushtie E4 6b *
Hard, then bold
E Cooper, A Moles

5. Treacle sponge robbery E1 5b **
Enjoyable open climbing
E Cooper, M Manson

Var.TSR. direct E3 6a *
Take a deep breath and Rp?s

E Cooper, A Moles

6. Overdue E2 5c/6a *
Good gear, easy if your tall and strong
A McQuoid FFA T Irving

7. Just in time E4 6a * Unrepeated
Delicate moves to a shared handhold on overdue under
the 2nd roof, finish quickly up right.
E Cooper, M Manson 2002


8. Dots delight VS 4c ***
Traverse low for HVS

9. Dots direct E1 5a *
Not hard, just don't even think of falling!
S Ried

10. Physical graffiti E2 6a
Tricky start hard past peg
S McIlween
Trickier start harder past peg
S McIlween

11. Dots very direct E4 6a **
Unrepeated
Straight past Dots peg to roof, pull this and keep going.
Surprisingly reasonable and well protected
E Cooper, A Moles 2003

12. Altered images E3 6a

13. Choices E5 6a **Unrepeated
A technical nerve wrecking experience
Start as for Rt.10 or 11 and continue past flake, move left and
up carefully to easier ground.
E Cooper, P McArthur 2001


14. Crystal Grinding E5 6a *Unrepeated
A nerve wrecking experience
Start as for Rt.10 or 11 and continue as for Dot to dot until
moves over bulge then left and happily the top
E Cooper, M Manson 2003

15.Wee Mark * HVS 5a

16.Gun Crazy 37m E2, 5c
I Rea, P Crawley 7/3/11.
Start about 5/6 mts. to the right of the heathery alcove below Wee Mark. Go easily up cleaned steps to below triangular overhang. Go round this on the right, then up to step right to below obvious long narrow horizontal overhang at a flake. Go over this and bulging wall above (crux) to gain ledge on left. Finish up the big flake of Glory Be (1998 Guide).

First Corner Buttress - Upper Tier

The following variation 'Liquid Cool' is on the upper tier. Approach with care from the start of Wee Mark by moving right across the grassy slab and reaching the heather ledge left of of Watersign or climb up to Maya and move left gaining the right side of the long heather ledge and then down it towards Watersign.

(A) Watersign ** E2 5c 20m
J McDonald, P Mallon 8/86.

(B) Liquid Cool - Variation *** E2 5c 20m
C Hiller, A Marshall & R Bell 10/6/09.
Start as for Watersign. Climb up the flake to a good ledge, step up and right to the spaced horizontal breaks and do the crux of Watersign (delicate). Traverse right along the break (bold) to below a scar. Crucial .5 camalot just slightly down and right in the break. Climb up excellent holds to a steep airy finish (high in the grade).

(C) The We’an E1 5a 18m
D Stelfox, G Murray, K Quinn 8/86.

(D) Fair Play to Mooney * E2 5c 16m
S Reid, J McDonald, P Nolan 6/84.

(E) Maya * E3 5c 18m
S Reid, J McDonald 6/84.









Published on: 2004-09-29 (5309 reads)

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