|SECOND CORNER BUTTRESS
The Dude Abides 50m E1 5c,4c,5b
I Rea, D Crawley & K Dewhurst
Start 4m left of Gumbo Variations.
1. 20m. Climb diagonally up right across a series of horizontal breaks to the left side of a ledge halfway up gumbo. Avoid Gumbo by making a hard mantel out left. Up to roof which is crossed at an undercling. Finish up a pocketed seam.
2. 10m. As for Gumbo Var.
3. 20m. Just before the step down on Gumbo climb up, difficult to ledge on the back wall. Go directly up back wall to flakes, easily turned on the right. Belays well back.
Second Corner Wall/Achilles final pitch 12m 4c.
Geoff Somerville, Alan Foster, 23/06/01
Move left and mantelshelf up onto the large ledge. Follow the dyke to the top.
(The same dyke as the end of Short, Sharp, Shocked).
The old Mournes guide seems to describe this as the finish to Zakopane, it isn't clear and the description doesn't quite match. It definitely provides a more direct and better finish.
Published on: 2004-10-08 (3947 reads)[ Go Back ]