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Eddie Cooper on Second Ascent of Elvis - E3 6a

1. Elvis 12m E3 6a
Ricky Young, Chris McKelvey, 12/06/01.
Starts under a roof at the corner of Fourth Corner buttress and the gully.
Climb the easy back wall to the roof and swing out to large jugs on the lip. Move up and left using the next couple of horizontal breaks avoiding the crack and large sticky out flakes that emerge from the small corner and gully to the right using these drops the grade to E2 5c?). Continue up the horizontal breaks until forced right below another bulge followed by a couple of mantle-shelves to the top.

Given to Fly

2. Given To Fly E3 6a.
Martin Manson, Mark Rocks, Eddie Cooper, 10-Jun-2001.
This quality route offers excellent climbing up the right ar?te of Brewers Gloom.
Start as for Praxis, but continue straight up to a good stance at the base of the wall. Small wires or 00 cams useful here. Step up and left to gain the base of the ar?te. Climb the ar?te entirely on its right hand side, past a peg, to finish on the grassy ledge. The peg is good, but will require a tie off which can be easily arranged on the lead.

3. Route 66 E3 6a.
Eddie Cooper, Martin Manson and Ricky Young, June 2001.
Enjoyable steep climbing up the obvious cracks and groove between No Highway and Swing Low.
Climb up the thin crack and groove to a bulge which is climbed with difficulty. Continue steeply to jammed boulder which is used to reach the horizontal break above (crux). Small friends and wires are useful for the protection at the start.

Pressure Point

4. Pressure Point E6 6c.
Eddie Cooper, Martin Manson, Paul McArthur and Ricky Young, 17/06/01.
Takes the obvious clean wall right of Swing Low. Move up to groove, arrange some protection before swinging up and right to a narrow sloping ledge. Climb straight up to a break and a knife blade (peg). Move up to good hold (crux) and continue up thin crack to ledge. Step right, then back left to top.

Published on: 2004-10-08 (4034 reads)

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