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Mournes Guidebook

The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)



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The spectacular East Face of Lower Cove at Sunrise, Photo: Craig Hiller

Prime Mate, E7 6c, 25m ***
R.Bell A.Marshall 12/6/10

A bouldery link from The 5th Ape into Sleazy Lover. Climb The 5th Ape to just after the crux where it scuttles left near the top. A bouldery section leads past a bomber cam 1 slot and the finishing moves of Sleazy Lover. Prime...

Ricky Bell on the FA of Prime Mate, Photo: Carla Magee

The Dark Crystal, E7 6c, 25m ***
R Bell, 10/4/10. (headpoint)

The best wet streak in the Mournes, except maybe for the Sheugh on Buzzard’s Roost! Start 3m left of The Rokkenjager. Bold moves up the black streak lead to good cams and a line of steep jugs which finish at the ledge below a short hanging corner. No 2 nut in flake out right protects the bouldery finish.

Andy Marshall on the 2nd ascent of The Dark Crystal, Photo: Craig Hiller

Sleazy Lover, E8 6c, 25m ***
R Bell, A Moles 18/4/10. (headpoint)

A perfect example of what the East Face of Lower Cove has best to offer. Steep bouldery climbing with a safe feel. Climb Easy Lover to the juggy rest at half height then continue straight up on undercuts to the sloping rail. Holds up and left lead to some respite before another bouldery section to get stood ontop. Good cam in resting slot.

Easy Lover, E7 6c. 25m ***
A Marshall, D O'Neill. 19/10/08. (headpoint)

Starts at the bottom of a flake line approx 5m right of Infidels. Climb the series of flakes trending rightwards until a small overlap. A long step up leads to a series of flakes were an assortment of gear can be arranged. From this point a long reach leads to the next break were a hard and technical traverse rightwards leaves you at a pocket and undercut. A hard move up and right (crux) leads to a wee bit more exposure until the bottom of another flake system is reached. A short rest bite and continue to the top with relative ease.

Andy Marshall on the FA of Easy Lover E7 6c, Photo: Craig Hiller

The 5th Ape, E5 6a. ***
D O’Neill 12/10/08.

Steep, positive climbing with good gear. Start under a ledge and plinth to the right of Infidels. Gain the plinth with care and backhand into the thin, right-facing layback flake on the left. Climb this to a good rest, gear. A tricky move gains the huge ‘bird’s beak’ flake up and right. Make a crux mantel onto the jug above using flat undercuts. Stretch up to the break and trend leftwards into the hanging groove.

Rokkenjager, E7 6c. ***
S Villanueva, A Marshall & R Bell 5/4/08 (Headpoint).

A scary line with a long runout through some bouldery climbing. Start up the crack in the back of the niche and move left with difficulty onto a big ledge. A bouldery sequence from the left end of the ledge leads up to the terrifyingly hollow flakes above.

Fat Boy Slime, E5 6a.
Seb Grieve, Adam Wainwright 3/7/03.

Climbs the left facing crack at the right end of the east face of Lower Cove..
Start on a sloping shelf below a right facing crack which does not quite reach the ground. Clip an old aid peg with a stick. Climb wall and crack (often wet) for 40 foot till just below a ledge on right and second old aid peg. At this point the crack is so full of slime that it is impossible to climb.
Traverse out left past a small overhang (small wires and RPs) to a sloping ledge. Once standing on sloping ledge move up to in cut break and traverse back right to the crack. Climb this to the top.
Climbed on-sight, ground up on-sight with no falls.

Published on: 2004-10-08 (10779 reads)

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