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  BEARNAGH TORS
Updated 26/07/11



Summit Tor, East Side





The following two routes are located between the vegatated corner of Work Party and Small Beer.



1. See Wright 35m HS 4b
K McCoey, E Quinn 23/7/11
Climb crack to the right of Work Party until it runs out. Continue up the left hand side of big flake/block to grass ledge. From Ledge go left to next crack system and follow this diagonally rightwards until the top.



2. Santa Muerto Rides Again! * 23m E1 5b
E Quinn, K McCoey 23/7/11
High in the grade but the crux can be made safe. Climb the crack 2m to the right of See Wright until a hard move reaches a sloping ledge. Arrange protection at flake for an exciting crux straight up the slab onto large ledge. Traverse about 1m left and continue more easily up groove to the top.




Summit Tor South Side



Idlewild E6 6b ***
Ali Wilson, Ricky Bell 22/10/05 (toproped prior to first ascent).
Climb Edelweiss E2 6a past the peg. Continue directly through the roof (on the left side of the 'nose') boldly. Once over the roof, holds on the right lead to the summit.



Too Cool for School E4 6b *
Andy Marshall, Ali Moles September 2005.
Take the line about 3m to the left of Rescue Climb.
Follows the slab until a series of pockets traverse with increasing difficulty until a dynamic throw reaches the ledge. Arrange gear and proceed up the slab to the top.



North Tor



Torture Chamber E5 6b*
Ali Moles, Andy Marshall September 2005.
Take the obvious line passing the obvious hole in the bulge about 6m to the left of The rage of Cardinal Richelieu. The route follows a strenuous traverse along a hand rail until the wall above is gained. Move left to the large hole and fight up the crack until a long balancy reach gains small holds over the bulge. Breathe out then proceed to the ledge.








The Rage of Cardinal Richelieu E4 6a/b *
Ali Wilson, Paul Swail, May 2005.
Takes the obvious line about 5m from the right side of Bearnagh North Tor.
Start up obvious corner to a roof which is climbed with difficulty. Once established over the roof easy climbing leads to the top.







Winter Routes


North Tor



Moving On V 6 30m
J Orr, J Parr 29/12/09
An excellent thin and sustained mixed pitch up a shallow right facing corner. Start 3m right of large corner on NE side of Summit Tor at a shallow right facing corner. Follow the corner with sustained interest moving out right at the top to belay in a large bay.
'I've given it V 6 because it is harder than work party and other routes of a similar grade I have done and feels bolder with not a lot of gear!' John Orr.







Summit Tor East - Left Hand



The White Spider IV 5 20m
C Hiller, S Gordon 29/12/09
This route is situated left of Toewrecker at a vegetated gully. Easily climb the gully to the base of a steep tight corner. Enter the corner with difficulty placing gear in the crack on your left. Climb the corner on decreasing turf to the top.







On the 29/12 Myself and Sam Gordon done the first winter ascent of the above route. We may have also climbed the first possible winter ascents of two old rock routes, 'The White Rabbit'(mainly veg) on the East Face of the Summit Tor and Rescue Climb(bit of veg) on the South side of the Summit Tor.














Published on: 2004-10-14 (4141 reads)

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