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Mournes Guidebook

The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)



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Updated 2/03/11

Eagle Rocks Upper Cliffs. Ravens Gully, Diamond Buttress & Jupiter Wall. Photo: Craig Hiller

Diamond Buttress

4th Generation Youth E2 5c **
Paul Swail and Stephen Ferris, 12/05/2005. Takes a line between Big Wig and No Quarter. Excellent fingery climbing with good protection. Climb Big Wig for 2m. Break right immediately to climb broken wall. Climb on positive crimps and sidepulls to top. Make tricky moves and exit via V-groove.

What's the Story? 20m E1 5b *
C.Hiller, R.Bell, A.Marshall 20/4/07
A fun route with juggy climbing in an awesome setting!! Start 2m right of Mercy Street below two overhangs. Climb up generous flakes to a stance below the first overhang. Continue through it to gain a rest on the slab below the final overhang and place protection. Make a blind move and feel your way over the lip (crux) and high step onto the slab above. Continue to belay with care.

Jupiter Wall

The Proving Ground E3 5c
A.Marshall, C.Hiller, R.Bell 20/4/07.
Start as for Arctic Dreams, make moves up the slab until able to step right to the bottom of the corner. continue up the corner making moves through the roof (crux small friends handy) contine up the groove to a ledge. From this point pick the least vegetated route up to the top.

Andrew Marshall on the first ascent of The Proving Ground E3 5c, Photo: Ricky Bell

Change the Pants ***35m E5 6b
R. Bell, A. Marshall, C. Hiller. 20/4/7
An excellent direct finish to Change the Script with plenty of hard climbing. Follow Change the Script to the small niche and the old peg. Step up and right past a wobbly jug and climb the middle of the steep wall on spaced finger locks and side pulls.

Galaxy Quest E1 5c *
C.Hiller 15/7/06
Start: 2m left of Eclipse under two obvious overhangs. Climb up beneath the overhangs and make the crux move through the left of the overhangs trending right above them. Continue straight up to a block belay.

West Arete

Dirt Bird 25m E1 5b
I Rea & P Holmes, 26/4/04.
Start left of New Boots and Panties, at the flake. Climb over the initial bulge directly above the flake, then step right onto the arete. Up via thin flake/crack. Step right into New Boots and Panties and then immediately left below bulge. Make awkward pull over left side of arete, then back right to ledge.
Finish directly up.

Crystal Fountains 25m E1 5b/c
I Rea & P Holmes 26/4/04
The clean arete between Anniversary Route and Dirt Bird. Start at a small lobe shaped flake. Go up arete to good ledges then out to the right and continue up via steep crack. Gain the top of the next pedestal from the left. Finish up the front face of the pillar.

New Boots and Panties - actually starts to the right of the flake mentioned in the guidebook and is a good pumpy E1 5b.

Lower Cliff

The Leech E5 6b/c **
Free climbed by Eddie Cooper & Jeremy Suffern 20/7/2005. An old aid route put up in 1965, The Leech, is on the lower cliffs and follows the narrow crack on the left-hand end of the short steep wall. It starts 2m left of The Thieving Magpie.

Winter Routes

Photo: Craig Hiller
Upper Cliff - Far left Side

Brief Encounter III, (4,3) 85m.
I.Rea and K. O'Hara, 3/12/10 The relationship between this route and the existing summer routes is uncertain. Start below an obvious solitary sapling. (1) 25m, Climb up grassy ledges past sapling and go right into base of large L. facing corner. Belay at the top of this. (2) 60m. Out L. and up passing a few awkward steps. Descend easily down L., abseil possible.

Upper Cliff - Far Right Side

Lemonade Springs III, 3/4, 50m.
I.Rea & F.O'Connor, 5/12/10 Start in the grassy bay about 10 m. R. of Ecilpse/Solstice.Up towards short inverted V slot/chimney, but instead of going up this go R. and up narrow, steep, turfy groove, past a large flake and then easier to top.

Anniversary Route IV, (6,2) 60m.
I.Rea & F.O'Connor, 5/12/10 (1) 20m. The summer groove is well protected but with a short hard crux to exit to gain belay on large flakes. (1) 40m. Up blocky mixed ground.

Published on: 2005-02-16 (4714 reads)

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