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Mournes Guidebook


The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)

 

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  DOUGLAS CRAG





Amen Corner 50m E2 5c, 5c.
Ian Rea, Eddie Cooper & Phil Holmes, 12th May 2005.
First free ascent and direct variation.
1.) 35m. Start on top of 2m high pedestal at the base of the wall. Go directly up past a miniature right facing corner, stepping up right to gain big ledge. Up short walls and ledges in a direct line about 2m right of actual corner to below overhang. Swing out airily to the left and continue up crack to belay on a good ledge below the final corner.
2.) 15m. Up corner to top. Belay stakes are about 10m back.

Fallen Timbers 60m E3 5c, 6a.
Ian Rea & Stephen Ferris, 6th August 2005.
1.) 40m. Either from the top of the pedestal at the base of Amen corner or via a traverse in from the left, gain the horizontal break on the left of the pedestal from where it is possible to go up and slightly left, making a precarious mantle, then horizontally right until directly above pedestal, then straight up to big ledge. Move right about 4m top go up a series of short walls and ledges until level with left edge of grass ledge. Go left into Amen corner and go up this for 4-5m until just below bulge. Go horizontally right to left edge of next heather terrace, then straight up to belay in big niche.
2.) 20m Go up diagonal crack and right hand wall to gain, precariously, an exposed ledge. Boldly up bulging wall, then horizontally left to ledge. Up directly and finish via Amen Corner.









Published on: 2005-08-08 (2931 reads)

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