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Mournes Guidebook

The New Mournes guide has been completed and is now for sale in the usual outdoor retailers or direct from Mountaineering Ireland. (www.mountaineering.ie)



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These first three routes are near the eastern end of the whole Castles area. Best approached from the Saddle. Walk five minutes west along the Brandy Pad then nip up the heathery slope to the right.

1. Archibald. Hard Severe 4b. (~22metres) Danny Carden, Andy Carden 26/09/08
Starting at a small niche, follow the cracks and breaks to a steeper single crack in an attractive right-angled corner. Jam up this to a ledge beneath a bulging headwall. Make one steep pull to reach easier ground.

2. Born Again. Severe 4b. (~22metres) Danny Carden, Andy Carden 26/09/08
Start just left of the toe of the buttress. Follow twin cracks to an awkward wide crack. Squirm up this with help of a flake and one good handhold to the ledge. Finish up the wide chimney, passing large jammed blocks with care.

3. Bare-knuckle Boxer.* Hard Very Severe 5a. (~23metres) Danny Carden, Andy Carden 26/09/08
Layback the slanting flake then make a tricky high step to reach the base of the bulging crack. Launch up the steep crack to a strenuous elephant’s arse finish. Move left to finish up the chimney on Born Again.

The next three routes are easiest to approach by walking a further 150 yards west along the Brandy Pad, before walking up the steep heathery slope on the right. They are best found by spotting the prominent diedre and overhanging crack-line of Feeling the Crunch, on a buttress facing straight down the Annalong Valley. This buttress is in the middle of the Castles crags, on the right (looking up) of a large steep gully. All three start from a picturesque grassy ledge, invisible from below. Scramble up to this ledge from the base of the gully on the left (looking up). .

4. Jobseekers’ Flake* Severe 4a. (~18metres) Danny Carden, Chris Keag, Eamon Quinn 27/09/08
From the base of the next route, move diagonally up left to a prominent sling-able jug at 4metres and go straight up from here to a ledge. Step right to climb the steep positive flake-line just left of the aręte.

5. Feeling the Crunch.* Very Severe 4c. (~18metres) Danny Carden 27/09/08
Climb the cracked diedre to a niche beneath the intimidating overhanging crack at 6metres. Pull through the bulge on perfect jams and follow the crack to the top in a fine position.

6. Spongers’ Corner. Severe 4b. (~18metres) Danny Carden, Eamon Quinn, Chris Keag 27/09/08
Layback the single steep crack two metres right of Feeling the Crunch to a sloping ledge beneath the twin-cracked corner. Climb straight up this on large holds, to a protruding square block. Use rounded holds to move past this on its left and reach the top.

Published on: 2008-10-14 (2471 reads)

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